Saturday, February 12, 2011
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Stolen moments scarf
Easy enough for lace novices, yet satisfyingly quick for
experienced knitters, this generous wrap is cozy, warm,
elegant, and ideal for knitting just a few rows at a time.
The Stolen Moments Wrap uses an easy four-row lace
pattern to create a modern and plush fabric. For the
sample shown, I used a 100% Cashmere yarn; the
height of luxury. But, this pattern showcases almost
any yarn choice.
Choose between the Chunky or Worsted weight ver-
sions, or simply cast on a multiple of 4 stitches plus 3
stitches.
Materials:
Chunky Version:
350 yards chunky yarn
Shown in Jade Saphire Cashmere 12ply
(100% Cashmere)
US 11/8mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Worsted-weight Version:
550 yards worsted-weight yarn
US 9/5.5mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Sizing:
one size
Finished Measurements:
Before blocking: 14” wide and 48” long
After gentle blocking, approximately: 17”
wide and 64” long
Instructions:
For chunky version, loosely cast on 39 sts. For worsted-weight version, loosely cast on 67 sts.
K 2 rows.
On next row, begin main pattern as follows:
Row 1: K2, [yo, SK2P, yo, K1] 8 times, yo, SK2P, yo, K2
Row 2: K2, p35, K2
Row 3: K4, [yo, SK2P, yo, k1] 7 times, yo, SK2P, yo, k4
Row 4: K2, p35, k2
Repeat the last 4 rows until piece measures 47 inches from cast on edge without stretching, or until nearly out
of yarn, ending with Row 1 or 3 of pattern.
K 2 rows.
Loosely cast off.
Finishing:
Sew in any loose ends. I suggest doing a modified wet blocking to help the lace pattern open up and relax.
Soak the shawl in warm water for up to 20 minutes or until saturated. Roll in a towel to remove as much water
as possible, then lay flat to dry. This simulates what will happen when the shawl is washed eventaully, and cre-
ates a more professional finish.
Take a step back, and enjoy your work!
experienced knitters, this generous wrap is cozy, warm,
elegant, and ideal for knitting just a few rows at a time.
The Stolen Moments Wrap uses an easy four-row lace
pattern to create a modern and plush fabric. For the
sample shown, I used a 100% Cashmere yarn; the
height of luxury. But, this pattern showcases almost
any yarn choice.
Choose between the Chunky or Worsted weight ver-
sions, or simply cast on a multiple of 4 stitches plus 3
stitches.
Materials:
Chunky Version:
350 yards chunky yarn
Shown in Jade Saphire Cashmere 12ply
(100% Cashmere)
US 11/8mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Worsted-weight Version:
550 yards worsted-weight yarn
US 9/5.5mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Sizing:
one size
Finished Measurements:
Before blocking: 14” wide and 48” long
After gentle blocking, approximately: 17”
wide and 64” long
Instructions:
For chunky version, loosely cast on 39 sts. For worsted-weight version, loosely cast on 67 sts.
K 2 rows.
On next row, begin main pattern as follows:
Row 1: K2, [yo, SK2P, yo, K1] 8 times, yo, SK2P, yo, K2
Row 2: K2, p35, K2
Row 3: K4, [yo, SK2P, yo, k1] 7 times, yo, SK2P, yo, k4
Row 4: K2, p35, k2
Repeat the last 4 rows until piece measures 47 inches from cast on edge without stretching, or until nearly out
of yarn, ending with Row 1 or 3 of pattern.
K 2 rows.
Loosely cast off.
Finishing:
Sew in any loose ends. I suggest doing a modified wet blocking to help the lace pattern open up and relax.
Soak the shawl in warm water for up to 20 minutes or until saturated. Roll in a towel to remove as much water
as possible, then lay flat to dry. This simulates what will happen when the shawl is washed eventaully, and cre-
ates a more professional finish.
Take a step back, and enjoy your work!
One row lace scarf
Materials:
I used 45 g (~175 yards) of a superfine alpaca yarn. The scarf is about 13 x 150 cm (~5 x 60 inches) unblocked, and it's very stretchy in both width and length.
Needles: 6 mm (US 10).
Use bigger needles than the yarn usually calls for.
Gauge (not important): 8 sts = 5 cm (2 inches) in pattern.
Skill level: Easy(/Intermediate)
Note: This will make an (unblocked) width of about 13 cm (about 5 inches). To increase the width: add 4 or more stitches, dividable with 4. The scarf is very stretchy, but you could use a bigger/smaller needle size, thicker/thinner yarn or adjust the stitch count to get a different size.
K= knit
K2tog= knit 2 stitches together
YO= Yarn over
Sts= stitches
Pattern:
Cast on 24 sts (or any number of stiches dividable with 4).
Knit 2 rows
Knit pattern row:
K4, (YO, K2tog, K2) repeat between ( ) 5 times.
Repeat the pattern row until your scarf is at desired length.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
Block if you want to.
If you make this scarf please let me know! I would love to see what you have created.
I used 45 g (~175 yards) of a superfine alpaca yarn. The scarf is about 13 x 150 cm (~5 x 60 inches) unblocked, and it's very stretchy in both width and length.
Needles: 6 mm (US 10).
Use bigger needles than the yarn usually calls for.
Gauge (not important): 8 sts = 5 cm (2 inches) in pattern.
Skill level: Easy(/Intermediate)
Note: This will make an (unblocked) width of about 13 cm (about 5 inches). To increase the width: add 4 or more stitches, dividable with 4. The scarf is very stretchy, but you could use a bigger/smaller needle size, thicker/thinner yarn or adjust the stitch count to get a different size.
K= knit
K2tog= knit 2 stitches together
YO= Yarn over
Sts= stitches
Pattern:
Cast on 24 sts (or any number of stiches dividable with 4).
Knit 2 rows
Knit pattern row:
K4, (YO, K2tog, K2) repeat between ( ) 5 times.
Repeat the pattern row until your scarf is at desired length.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
Block if you want to.
If you make this scarf please let me know! I would love to see what you have created.
Socks
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/socksbasic.htm
This sock pattern for women works best with a sock weight or skinny sport weight yarn - anything from Socka Colours to Patons Look at Me! baby sport works well. My current favourite is the Look at Me! because it is inexpensive, easy to find, comfy to wear and comes in some of the wildest colours I've ever seen. The socks in the photo are made of Look at Me! - and believe me, people do! I have also made these socks in Wendy's DK cotton, using ribbing all the way down the cuff and on the top of the foot to give the socks more stretch, since cotton is not elastic.
Materials:
100 grams sock yarn of your choice
Have some contrast colour yarn handy for the toes if you are making socks for a long foot, or if you want to extend the cuff length.
Size 2 to 3 US (3 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge:
28 sts= 4 inches
Instructions
CO 56 sts. Join and mark beg of round.
Rib in K2, P2 rib for 7 inches or desired leg length.
Divide For Heel
Put one half of the stitches (28), centered on the beginning of the round, on a needle. (The easiest way to do this is to knit the first 14 sts, then turn and slip the 14 sts on the other side of the marker onto the needle). Place the other half on a holder - these stitches will be the instep later on. Work the heel flap over the 28 sts (using contrast colour if desired):
P across the back of the heel flap, slipping the first stitch.
Turn.
Sl1, K1 across.
Turn.
Repeat these 2 rows till you have worked 28 rows (count the slipped stitches which should be 14).
Turning The Heel
You are making short rows to shape a little cup for the heel.
Starting on the right side, knit halfway across the heel flap (14 sts) plus 2 (16). Sl1, K1, psso. K1. Turn.
Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn.
Sl1, K across to the gap (where you turned), slip the first stitch before the gap, K the stitch on the other side, psso, K1. Turn again.
Sl1, P across to the gap. P2tog across the gap. P1. Turn.
Continue in this manner until all the heel flap stitches have been used up.
Join the first colour back in if you made a contrasting heel. Now you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again. Those stitches you put aside before doing the heel flap have waited patiently and will be put back into use!
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a lovely chain edge which will be easy to pick up. You should be able to get 14 stitches on each side, but don't worry if you get more or less than this. I usually pick up the stitches on one needle and knit them onto another, twisting them by knitting into the back of the loop.
Knit across those patient instep stitches, or continue them in ribbing, then pick up and knit the same number of stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit one half of the heel flap stitches (8 or 9) onto this needle. Mark the centre as the beginning of the round. You now have three needles with rather a lot of stitches on them - one for each side of the gusset and one for the instep. If you have a spare needle in about the same size you can put the instep stitches on two needles instead - I find this is much easier to work.
Now you want to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56).
Knit to 3 sts from the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1.
Rib across the instep sts.
On needles 3 and 4, K first st, Sl1, K1, psso. Knit to end.
K next round plain (ribbing the instep if desired).
Repeat decrease round every other round until you have 56 sts again.
Continue with knit sole and ribbed instep (just follow the established rib) until the foot measures 2½" less than your foot length. I use my 7" double points to give me a rough idea of when to begin the toe shaping, since my foot is 9½" long.
Shape Toe:
Join contrast colour if using such.
Knit one round plain.
Decrease round:
K to 3 sts from end of first needle, K2tog, K1.
K first st on instep needle, Sl1, psso, knit to 3 sts from end of instep needle (or end of needle 3 if you split the instep sts), K2tog, K1.
Last needle, K1, Sl1, psso, K to end.
Knit one round plain.
Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (28, or 7 on each of 4 needles). Then decrease on every round until you have 12 sts left all together.
Cut off the yarn leaving an 18" tail. Thread a needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).
Weave in all your yarn ends, making sure to leave no knots. Knots in a sock will give you nasty blisters! There, you've made a sock! Welcome to the new addiction...
Now you can make the mate. Handmade socks don't always match. If you want to, you can create a wardrobe of single unmatched but coordinating socks and wear a different pair every time!
This sock pattern for women works best with a sock weight or skinny sport weight yarn - anything from Socka Colours to Patons Look at Me! baby sport works well. My current favourite is the Look at Me! because it is inexpensive, easy to find, comfy to wear and comes in some of the wildest colours I've ever seen. The socks in the photo are made of Look at Me! - and believe me, people do! I have also made these socks in Wendy's DK cotton, using ribbing all the way down the cuff and on the top of the foot to give the socks more stretch, since cotton is not elastic.
Materials:
100 grams sock yarn of your choice
Have some contrast colour yarn handy for the toes if you are making socks for a long foot, or if you want to extend the cuff length.
Size 2 to 3 US (3 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge:
28 sts= 4 inches
Instructions
CO 56 sts. Join and mark beg of round.
Rib in K2, P2 rib for 7 inches or desired leg length.
Divide For Heel
Put one half of the stitches (28), centered on the beginning of the round, on a needle. (The easiest way to do this is to knit the first 14 sts, then turn and slip the 14 sts on the other side of the marker onto the needle). Place the other half on a holder - these stitches will be the instep later on. Work the heel flap over the 28 sts (using contrast colour if desired):
P across the back of the heel flap, slipping the first stitch.
Turn.
Sl1, K1 across.
Turn.
Repeat these 2 rows till you have worked 28 rows (count the slipped stitches which should be 14).
Turning The Heel
You are making short rows to shape a little cup for the heel.
Starting on the right side, knit halfway across the heel flap (14 sts) plus 2 (16). Sl1, K1, psso. K1. Turn.
Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn.
Sl1, K across to the gap (where you turned), slip the first stitch before the gap, K the stitch on the other side, psso, K1. Turn again.
Sl1, P across to the gap. P2tog across the gap. P1. Turn.
Continue in this manner until all the heel flap stitches have been used up.
Join the first colour back in if you made a contrasting heel. Now you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again. Those stitches you put aside before doing the heel flap have waited patiently and will be put back into use!
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a lovely chain edge which will be easy to pick up. You should be able to get 14 stitches on each side, but don't worry if you get more or less than this. I usually pick up the stitches on one needle and knit them onto another, twisting them by knitting into the back of the loop.
Knit across those patient instep stitches, or continue them in ribbing, then pick up and knit the same number of stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit one half of the heel flap stitches (8 or 9) onto this needle. Mark the centre as the beginning of the round. You now have three needles with rather a lot of stitches on them - one for each side of the gusset and one for the instep. If you have a spare needle in about the same size you can put the instep stitches on two needles instead - I find this is much easier to work.
Now you want to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56).
Knit to 3 sts from the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1.
Rib across the instep sts.
On needles 3 and 4, K first st, Sl1, K1, psso. Knit to end.
K next round plain (ribbing the instep if desired).
Repeat decrease round every other round until you have 56 sts again.
Continue with knit sole and ribbed instep (just follow the established rib) until the foot measures 2½" less than your foot length. I use my 7" double points to give me a rough idea of when to begin the toe shaping, since my foot is 9½" long.
Shape Toe:
Join contrast colour if using such.
Knit one round plain.
Decrease round:
K to 3 sts from end of first needle, K2tog, K1.
K first st on instep needle, Sl1, psso, knit to 3 sts from end of instep needle (or end of needle 3 if you split the instep sts), K2tog, K1.
Last needle, K1, Sl1, psso, K to end.
Knit one round plain.
Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (28, or 7 on each of 4 needles). Then decrease on every round until you have 12 sts left all together.
Cut off the yarn leaving an 18" tail. Thread a needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).
Weave in all your yarn ends, making sure to leave no knots. Knots in a sock will give you nasty blisters! There, you've made a sock! Welcome to the new addiction...
Now you can make the mate. Handmade socks don't always match. If you want to, you can create a wardrobe of single unmatched but coordinating socks and wear a different pair every time!
Toe up Gusseted Heel
Toe-up Gusseted Heel
http://www.maiaspins.typepad.com/maiaspins/2007/05/toeup_gusseted_.html
Warning: This is a very picture heavy post. Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I am a big fan of toe-up socks. Partly because I have large feet and I always worry about running out of yarn and partly because it just feels right to me. I also have high arches. Afterthought and short-row heels don't give me the fit I am looking for. I have been searching for the right heel and have even invented a few. My Penny Socks and Banana Blossom Socks use two different attempts at finding the "right heel". Both work in these patterns, but neither one is versatile enough to be used on any sock at any gauge.
I started thinking about heel construction and realized that I was trying to reinvent the wheel. Why not turn a top-down heel upside down?
It is pretty simple. And, it works at all gauges. I have tested it on socks knit at 6 sts/in and socks at 9.5 sts/in (shown in this tutorial) as well as fingering weight socks. This tutorial will work the math for this sock for my foot (10.25 inches long). I incorporate negative ease in the circumference and a little bit in the length of the foot because I like a snug fit. You should adapt this to suit your foot. I would love to hear what you learn.
Please note that the numbers in this tutorial are for the sock shown. I have tried to make calculating these numbers straightforward. (Let me know if this is not the case.) You will need to calculate the numbers you need if you are using a different number of stitches.
This tutorial is designed for a high arch. For a lower arch, see the modifications at the bottom.
Knit your sock from the toe-up using your favorite methods. When it reaches about 65% of the total length of your foot you will start on the heel flap. The math for calculating this is 10.25 inches x 0.65 = 6.7 inches. I usually use about 6.5 inches.
Flap_start_2 The first time I used this method, I made the flap with all of the sole stitches. The flap seemed to come up too far over my heel and it looked a bit clunky. Now I use 2/3 of the sole stitches and it has a much cleaner look. This sock is knit on 80 stitches, 40 soles stitches and 40 instep stitches. So 40 sts x 2/3 = 26.7 sts. I want an even number, either 26 or 28. I used 26 sts for the flap. This mean 14 sole stitches will remain unworked. They are shown on the lower horizontal needle (7 sts on each side of the flap). I don't knit with that needle as shown, it is just to help you see what I'm doing; it is awkward and unnecessary to have it there. I place the extra stitches on the adjacent needles. The pins are to keep the flap from rolling while I took the picture.
Flap_finished Work until the sock including the flap measures about 90 - 95% of the total length of your foot. End on a right side (RS) row. 10.25 inches x 0.95 = 9.7 inches. I used 9.5 inches. Again the lower horizontal needle and pins are just for clarity.
Flap_finished_2 Here is what the sock looks like without the second horizontal needle. It looks like a tie to me.
On to the heel shaping. First we need to determine the number of heel stitches we will use. The heel stitches will be the middle stitches (you'll see what they are in a minute). I use 1+ inches. In this case 10 stitches. We need the remaining flap stitches to be divisible by 4. Since this flap is worked on 26 sts and we are using 10 heel stitches, that leaves 16 stitches (I call them side stitches) which is divisible by 4.
Heel shaping starts on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
Heel_shaping Continue in this manner until you have only the heel stitches (10) remaining, ending on a RS row. In this case it is 10 heel stitches. There should be 8 stitches on each side of the heel stitches. 8 +10 + 8 = 26 = the total number of flap stitches. Turn work to the WS.
Now we need to incorporate these stitches. You should be on a WS row.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches - 2 (for this sock it is 10 - 2 = 8), slip=slip-purl (SSP, see below), purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches - 1 (10 - 1 = 9), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches (10), SSP, purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches + 1 (10 + 1 = 11), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
Heel_shaping_done Continue in this manner until all the side stitches have been incorporated. There will be fewer stitches now than you worked on the flap. Half of the side stitches have been decreased by the SSP's and k2tog's. For this sock, there should be 10 heel stitches plus half of the side stitches (10 + 16/2 = 10 + 8 = 18).
Heel_shaping_side_view Here is another view of the heel from the side. As you can see there are no holes, just a clean look.
Heel_divided Now we need to pick up gusset stitches along each side of the flap. To make this easier, I evenly divide the stitches at the heel onto 2 needles.
Gusset_gap Pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch along the side of the flap. I pick up both loops of the slipped stitch because I prefer that look. When you get to the base of the flap there will be a gap between the last slipped stitch and the rest of the foot stitches.
Gusset_gap_closed Pick up one more stitch (gap stitch), one row below the last slipped stitch. With the same needle, work across the sole stitches that were set aside when you reduced the flap to 2/3 of the sole stitches. I like to do this so that when I work the gusset decreases, I am not at a gap between needles. It helps to keep the decreases snug and clean looking. It also returns the stitches on the instep needles to their original number.
All_picked_up Repeat (but in reverse) for the other side of the flap. When all of the stitches are picked up, it will look like this. I now consider the back of the heel to be the start of the round. Work one round before the gusset decreases.
We will now decrease the gusset stitches until we are back to the original number of stitches at the foot (80 for this sock). Since the instep needles are restored to their original number of stitches (20 each), we will decrease until the sole needles have the same number of stitches (20 x 4 = 80).
Align_gusset_decreases For a clean look I like to align the gusset decreases with the column of stitches adjacent to the flap stitches.
Align_gusset_decreases_2 Here is an annotated version of the gusset decrease alignment. As it happens, the cleanest look comes from using the gap stitch as the line for decreasing.
Decreases are worked as follows:
Work from the back of the heel to one stitch before the first gap stitch, k2tog, work to the second gap stitch, ssk, work the rest of the round. Repeat this decrease round on every other row until you have the correct number of stitches.
Gusset_decreases_started Here is how it will look after a few rounds.
Gusset_decreases_done And, after decreases are complete.
Finish the leg and cuff as you desire.
A pdf version of this tutorial will be is available shortly (as a link in the side bar with the other tutorial links).
Abbreviations:
k2tog: knit two stitches together by putting your needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch.
ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip 1 knitwise (as if to knit), slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle and knit the stitches together through the back of the loop.
Ssp SSP: slip, slip, purl. Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle, purl the two stitches together by putting the needle through the back of the second stitch and then the first stitch (see picture at right).
sts: abbreviation for stitches.
Tips:
Pull all slipped stitches tight. This will help prevent holes at the heel shaping.
I find it easiest to do the gusset decreases on pattern rows (assuming that the pattern stitch is worked on every other row). That way I know all the thinking is happening on one round. It helps me keep track of what I'm doing.
Modifications:
For a lower arch, work the foot longer, maybe to 75% of the total foot length. The flap will still be worked until it is 90 - 95% of the total foot length. The flap will end up shorter and therefor you will have fewer stitches to pick up along the flap and fewer stitches to decrease.
You may want to adjust the number of flap stitches slightly to work with the stitch pattern at the leg.
I hope you find this tutorial helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I view my tutorials and patterns as guidelines. Please make any modifications that make sense for your style and fit. And, then, tell me what you have learned.
UPDATE: January 10, 2008
Lilli in Finland has posted a Finnish translation of this tutorial. It is worth checking out even if you don't speak Finnish. She has mad a chart of the heel turn that is quite helpful. Thank you Lilli!
http://www.maiaspins.typepad.com/maiaspins/2007/05/toeup_gusseted_.html
Warning: This is a very picture heavy post. Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I am a big fan of toe-up socks. Partly because I have large feet and I always worry about running out of yarn and partly because it just feels right to me. I also have high arches. Afterthought and short-row heels don't give me the fit I am looking for. I have been searching for the right heel and have even invented a few. My Penny Socks and Banana Blossom Socks use two different attempts at finding the "right heel". Both work in these patterns, but neither one is versatile enough to be used on any sock at any gauge.
I started thinking about heel construction and realized that I was trying to reinvent the wheel. Why not turn a top-down heel upside down?
It is pretty simple. And, it works at all gauges. I have tested it on socks knit at 6 sts/in and socks at 9.5 sts/in (shown in this tutorial) as well as fingering weight socks. This tutorial will work the math for this sock for my foot (10.25 inches long). I incorporate negative ease in the circumference and a little bit in the length of the foot because I like a snug fit. You should adapt this to suit your foot. I would love to hear what you learn.
Please note that the numbers in this tutorial are for the sock shown. I have tried to make calculating these numbers straightforward. (Let me know if this is not the case.) You will need to calculate the numbers you need if you are using a different number of stitches.
This tutorial is designed for a high arch. For a lower arch, see the modifications at the bottom.
Knit your sock from the toe-up using your favorite methods. When it reaches about 65% of the total length of your foot you will start on the heel flap. The math for calculating this is 10.25 inches x 0.65 = 6.7 inches. I usually use about 6.5 inches.
Flap_start_2 The first time I used this method, I made the flap with all of the sole stitches. The flap seemed to come up too far over my heel and it looked a bit clunky. Now I use 2/3 of the sole stitches and it has a much cleaner look. This sock is knit on 80 stitches, 40 soles stitches and 40 instep stitches. So 40 sts x 2/3 = 26.7 sts. I want an even number, either 26 or 28. I used 26 sts for the flap. This mean 14 sole stitches will remain unworked. They are shown on the lower horizontal needle (7 sts on each side of the flap). I don't knit with that needle as shown, it is just to help you see what I'm doing; it is awkward and unnecessary to have it there. I place the extra stitches on the adjacent needles. The pins are to keep the flap from rolling while I took the picture.
Flap_finished Work until the sock including the flap measures about 90 - 95% of the total length of your foot. End on a right side (RS) row. 10.25 inches x 0.95 = 9.7 inches. I used 9.5 inches. Again the lower horizontal needle and pins are just for clarity.
Flap_finished_2 Here is what the sock looks like without the second horizontal needle. It looks like a tie to me.
On to the heel shaping. First we need to determine the number of heel stitches we will use. The heel stitches will be the middle stitches (you'll see what they are in a minute). I use 1+ inches. In this case 10 stitches. We need the remaining flap stitches to be divisible by 4. Since this flap is worked on 26 sts and we are using 10 heel stitches, that leaves 16 stitches (I call them side stitches) which is divisible by 4.
Heel shaping starts on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
Heel_shaping Continue in this manner until you have only the heel stitches (10) remaining, ending on a RS row. In this case it is 10 heel stitches. There should be 8 stitches on each side of the heel stitches. 8 +10 + 8 = 26 = the total number of flap stitches. Turn work to the WS.
Now we need to incorporate these stitches. You should be on a WS row.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches - 2 (for this sock it is 10 - 2 = 8), slip=slip-purl (SSP, see below), purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches - 1 (10 - 1 = 9), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches (10), SSP, purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches + 1 (10 + 1 = 11), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
Heel_shaping_done Continue in this manner until all the side stitches have been incorporated. There will be fewer stitches now than you worked on the flap. Half of the side stitches have been decreased by the SSP's and k2tog's. For this sock, there should be 10 heel stitches plus half of the side stitches (10 + 16/2 = 10 + 8 = 18).
Heel_shaping_side_view Here is another view of the heel from the side. As you can see there are no holes, just a clean look.
Heel_divided Now we need to pick up gusset stitches along each side of the flap. To make this easier, I evenly divide the stitches at the heel onto 2 needles.
Gusset_gap Pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch along the side of the flap. I pick up both loops of the slipped stitch because I prefer that look. When you get to the base of the flap there will be a gap between the last slipped stitch and the rest of the foot stitches.
Gusset_gap_closed Pick up one more stitch (gap stitch), one row below the last slipped stitch. With the same needle, work across the sole stitches that were set aside when you reduced the flap to 2/3 of the sole stitches. I like to do this so that when I work the gusset decreases, I am not at a gap between needles. It helps to keep the decreases snug and clean looking. It also returns the stitches on the instep needles to their original number.
All_picked_up Repeat (but in reverse) for the other side of the flap. When all of the stitches are picked up, it will look like this. I now consider the back of the heel to be the start of the round. Work one round before the gusset decreases.
We will now decrease the gusset stitches until we are back to the original number of stitches at the foot (80 for this sock). Since the instep needles are restored to their original number of stitches (20 each), we will decrease until the sole needles have the same number of stitches (20 x 4 = 80).
Align_gusset_decreases For a clean look I like to align the gusset decreases with the column of stitches adjacent to the flap stitches.
Align_gusset_decreases_2 Here is an annotated version of the gusset decrease alignment. As it happens, the cleanest look comes from using the gap stitch as the line for decreasing.
Decreases are worked as follows:
Work from the back of the heel to one stitch before the first gap stitch, k2tog, work to the second gap stitch, ssk, work the rest of the round. Repeat this decrease round on every other row until you have the correct number of stitches.
Gusset_decreases_started Here is how it will look after a few rounds.
Gusset_decreases_done And, after decreases are complete.
Finish the leg and cuff as you desire.
A pdf version of this tutorial will be is available shortly (as a link in the side bar with the other tutorial links).
Abbreviations:
k2tog: knit two stitches together by putting your needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch.
ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip 1 knitwise (as if to knit), slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle and knit the stitches together through the back of the loop.
Ssp SSP: slip, slip, purl. Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle, purl the two stitches together by putting the needle through the back of the second stitch and then the first stitch (see picture at right).
sts: abbreviation for stitches.
Tips:
Pull all slipped stitches tight. This will help prevent holes at the heel shaping.
I find it easiest to do the gusset decreases on pattern rows (assuming that the pattern stitch is worked on every other row). That way I know all the thinking is happening on one round. It helps me keep track of what I'm doing.
Modifications:
For a lower arch, work the foot longer, maybe to 75% of the total foot length. The flap will still be worked until it is 90 - 95% of the total foot length. The flap will end up shorter and therefor you will have fewer stitches to pick up along the flap and fewer stitches to decrease.
You may want to adjust the number of flap stitches slightly to work with the stitch pattern at the leg.
I hope you find this tutorial helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I view my tutorials and patterns as guidelines. Please make any modifications that make sense for your style and fit. And, then, tell me what you have learned.
UPDATE: January 10, 2008
Lilli in Finland has posted a Finnish translation of this tutorial. It is worth checking out even if you don't speak Finnish. She has mad a chart of the heel turn that is quite helpful. Thank you Lilli!
Friday, February 4, 2011
Cowl/hood
Use size 11
GAUGE:
14 sts + 18 rnds = 4 in. [10 cm] over pattern st. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
COWL/HOOD
Cast on 82 (89) sts. Join, taking care not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnds 1-4: Purl.
Rnds 5-8: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1-8 until piece measures 21 in. [54 cm], end with a Rnd 4. Bind off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
GAUGE:
14 sts + 18 rnds = 4 in. [10 cm] over pattern st. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
COWL/HOOD
Cast on 82 (89) sts. Join, taking care not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnds 1-4: Purl.
Rnds 5-8: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1-8 until piece measures 21 in. [54 cm], end with a Rnd 4. Bind off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
The hat that rocks
Yarn: Blue Moon Fiber Arts De-Vine, 100% merino wool, 225 yards, colorway: Falcon's Eye; for the "Other Hat" I used 2.5 skeins of Karabella Aurora Bulky for a large hat (probably can use 2 for small women's hat)
Needles: US 10 3/4, 16" circular needles (that's what I had; could have gone down to 10 or 10 1/2 for "Other Hat", also used US 8 needle for brim on "Other Hat"), 10 1/2 DPN, cable needle
Gauge: 3.5 stitches= 1" (although ribbing is quite forgiving, just depends on how fitted you want the hat)
Cable Pattern: (modified the "Braided Cable" Stitch from the new Harmony Guides: Cables & Arans by Melanie Falick)
T3B (Twist 3 Back) = slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then purl st from cable needle
T3F (Twist 3 Front) = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
C4B (Cable 4 Back) = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
C4F (Cable 4 Front) = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
1st Row: p3, T3F, T3B, T3F
2nd Row: p4, k4, p2, k2 (on all even rows, you knit the knits and purl the purls, but I did write out each row)
3rd Row: p4, C4B, p2, k2
4th Row: same as Row 2
5th Row: p3, T3B, T3F, T3B
6th Row: p3, k2, p2, k4, p1
7th Row: p3, k2, p2, C4F, p1
8th Row: same as Row 6
Directions
Earflaps
Cast on 7 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Knit into the front & back of the first st (kfb), k5, kfb
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: kfb, k7, kfb
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: kfb, T3F, T3B, T3F, kfb
Row 8: k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
Row 9: p3, C4B, p2, k2, p2
Row 10: k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
Row 11: kfb, p1, T3B, T3F, T3B, p1, kfb (15 sts)
Row 12: k4, p4, k2, p5
Row 13: p3, k2, p2, C4F, p4
Row 14: k4, p4, k2, p5
Cut yarn. Put stitches on holder. Make another earflap.
After Row 14 on the second earflap do not cut the yarn. On the right side, knit the first row of the cable pattern across the 15 sts (Note: The cable pattern repeats, so knit the first 12 sts following the pattern, and then the next 3 stitches begin repeating the pattern again.....p3, T3F, T3B, T3F, p3). Turn your work (to the wrong side) and using the cable cast on, cast on 33 stitches. Turn work (back to the front side) and attach the other earflap. Continue in the first row of the cable pattern across the second earflap. Turn work (to the wrong side) and using the cable cast on, cast on 21 stitches. Turn work (back to the front side). Place marker and join to begin working in the round. Begin row 2 of the cable pattern.
Follow Rows 1-8 of the cable pattern for a total of 4 times (approximately 6" or to desired length).
Begin decrease section (note this decrease section can also be used for the Small Women's "Other Hat", but use the alternate decrease for the Large "Other Hat"). The decrease section was a bit tricky as I tried to preserve the cable pattern as much as possible (feedback is more than welcome!).
Row 1: p1, p2tog, T3F, T3B, T3F
Row 2: p3, k4, p2, k2
Row 3: p1, p2tog, C4B, p2, k2
Row 4: p2, k4, p2, k2
Row 5: p2tog, k2, T3F, T3B
Row 6: k2tog (begin k2tog here instead of p2t0g to decrease gaps; cleaner look), k1, p1, k4, p1
Row 7: To preserve the cable for one more row and to decrease the purl stitch at the end of the pattern, the decrease is moving slightly. Undo the last stitch (purl stitch) and put it next to the 1st stitch. K2tog (purl stitch from the last round & 1st knit stitch on new round; will need to move marker). Then k1, p1, C4F. Continue K2tog, K1, p1, C4F the rest of the round.
Row 8: k2tog, p1, k4
Row 9: k2tog, k4
Row 10: k2tog, k3
Row 11: k2tog, k2
Row 12: k2tog, k1
Row 13: k2tog
Pull yarn tightly through remaining stitches. Weave in ends. Make braids (cut 12 pieces, 18" in length).
Hit the slopes!
So, until De-Vine becomes a bit more readily available, I thought I would try the hat in another favorite yarn, Karabella Aurora Bulky. Its not quite as bulky as the De-Vine, but its a decent alternate. These pictures are a bit deceiving though. This hat is probably more of a "Large" or "Mens" size. It was a bit big on Rowan, and I switched to size 9 DPN for the decrease (you can't really tell once I'm wearing it) because I was yes, a bit too lazy to rip it out and I didn't want to give Snowboarder ANOTHER hat. See the notes below for the smaller size, but I haven't knit it yet.
The "Other Hat" that Rocks!
The Other Hat that Rocks
The Other Hat that Rocks
Modifications to above pattern:
Using size 8 needles, cast on 84 stitches. Place marker and join in the round. K1, P1 ribbing for 6 rounds. Change to size 10 or 10.5 needles (note, the above hat was knit with a size US 10 3/4).
Knit Rows 1-8 of the above cable pattern 4 times (approximately 6.5"; for smaller size, knit pattern 3 times, approx. 5").
Begin decrease section (note for small women's hat use the above decrease, its a bit longer). The decrease section was a bit tricky as I tried to preserve the cable pattern as much as possible (feedback is more than welcome!).
Row 1: p1, p2tog, T3F, T3B, T3F
Row 2: p1, p2tog, k4, p2, k2
Row 3: p2tog, C4B, p2, k2
Row 4: k2tog, k3, p2, k2
Row 5: k2tog, T3F, T3B
Row 6: k2tog, k4, p1
Row 7: To preserve the cable for one more row and to decrease the purl stitch at the end of the pattern, the decrease is moving slightly. Undo the last stitch (purl stitch) and put it next to the 1st stitch. K2tog (purl stitch from the last round & 1st knit stitch on new round; will need to move marker). Then C4F. Continue K2tog, C4F the rest of the round.
Row 8: k2tog, k2
Row 9: k2t0g, k1
Row 10: k2tog
Pull yarn tightly through remaining stitches. Weave in ends.
Please feel free to contact me at irishgirlieknits AT gmail DOT com for questions. If you leave a comment with a question, please be sure to include an email so that I have a way to contact you. Thanks!
Needles: US 10 3/4, 16" circular needles (that's what I had; could have gone down to 10 or 10 1/2 for "Other Hat", also used US 8 needle for brim on "Other Hat"), 10 1/2 DPN, cable needle
Gauge: 3.5 stitches= 1" (although ribbing is quite forgiving, just depends on how fitted you want the hat)
Cable Pattern: (modified the "Braided Cable" Stitch from the new Harmony Guides: Cables & Arans by Melanie Falick)
T3B (Twist 3 Back) = slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then purl st from cable needle
T3F (Twist 3 Front) = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
C4B (Cable 4 Back) = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
C4F (Cable 4 Front) = slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle
1st Row: p3, T3F, T3B, T3F
2nd Row: p4, k4, p2, k2 (on all even rows, you knit the knits and purl the purls, but I did write out each row)
3rd Row: p4, C4B, p2, k2
4th Row: same as Row 2
5th Row: p3, T3B, T3F, T3B
6th Row: p3, k2, p2, k4, p1
7th Row: p3, k2, p2, C4F, p1
8th Row: same as Row 6
Directions
Earflaps
Cast on 7 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Knit into the front & back of the first st (kfb), k5, kfb
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: kfb, k7, kfb
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: kfb, T3F, T3B, T3F, kfb
Row 8: k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
Row 9: p3, C4B, p2, k2, p2
Row 10: k2, p2, k2, p4, k3
Row 11: kfb, p1, T3B, T3F, T3B, p1, kfb (15 sts)
Row 12: k4, p4, k2, p5
Row 13: p3, k2, p2, C4F, p4
Row 14: k4, p4, k2, p5
Cut yarn. Put stitches on holder. Make another earflap.
After Row 14 on the second earflap do not cut the yarn. On the right side, knit the first row of the cable pattern across the 15 sts (Note: The cable pattern repeats, so knit the first 12 sts following the pattern, and then the next 3 stitches begin repeating the pattern again.....p3, T3F, T3B, T3F, p3). Turn your work (to the wrong side) and using the cable cast on, cast on 33 stitches. Turn work (back to the front side) and attach the other earflap. Continue in the first row of the cable pattern across the second earflap. Turn work (to the wrong side) and using the cable cast on, cast on 21 stitches. Turn work (back to the front side). Place marker and join to begin working in the round. Begin row 2 of the cable pattern.
Follow Rows 1-8 of the cable pattern for a total of 4 times (approximately 6" or to desired length).
Begin decrease section (note this decrease section can also be used for the Small Women's "Other Hat", but use the alternate decrease for the Large "Other Hat"). The decrease section was a bit tricky as I tried to preserve the cable pattern as much as possible (feedback is more than welcome!).
Row 1: p1, p2tog, T3F, T3B, T3F
Row 2: p3, k4, p2, k2
Row 3: p1, p2tog, C4B, p2, k2
Row 4: p2, k4, p2, k2
Row 5: p2tog, k2, T3F, T3B
Row 6: k2tog (begin k2tog here instead of p2t0g to decrease gaps; cleaner look), k1, p1, k4, p1
Row 7: To preserve the cable for one more row and to decrease the purl stitch at the end of the pattern, the decrease is moving slightly. Undo the last stitch (purl stitch) and put it next to the 1st stitch. K2tog (purl stitch from the last round & 1st knit stitch on new round; will need to move marker). Then k1, p1, C4F. Continue K2tog, K1, p1, C4F the rest of the round.
Row 8: k2tog, p1, k4
Row 9: k2tog, k4
Row 10: k2tog, k3
Row 11: k2tog, k2
Row 12: k2tog, k1
Row 13: k2tog
Pull yarn tightly through remaining stitches. Weave in ends. Make braids (cut 12 pieces, 18" in length).
Hit the slopes!
So, until De-Vine becomes a bit more readily available, I thought I would try the hat in another favorite yarn, Karabella Aurora Bulky. Its not quite as bulky as the De-Vine, but its a decent alternate. These pictures are a bit deceiving though. This hat is probably more of a "Large" or "Mens" size. It was a bit big on Rowan, and I switched to size 9 DPN for the decrease (you can't really tell once I'm wearing it) because I was yes, a bit too lazy to rip it out and I didn't want to give Snowboarder ANOTHER hat. See the notes below for the smaller size, but I haven't knit it yet.
The "Other Hat" that Rocks!
The Other Hat that Rocks
The Other Hat that Rocks
Modifications to above pattern:
Using size 8 needles, cast on 84 stitches. Place marker and join in the round. K1, P1 ribbing for 6 rounds. Change to size 10 or 10.5 needles (note, the above hat was knit with a size US 10 3/4).
Knit Rows 1-8 of the above cable pattern 4 times (approximately 6.5"; for smaller size, knit pattern 3 times, approx. 5").
Begin decrease section (note for small women's hat use the above decrease, its a bit longer). The decrease section was a bit tricky as I tried to preserve the cable pattern as much as possible (feedback is more than welcome!).
Row 1: p1, p2tog, T3F, T3B, T3F
Row 2: p1, p2tog, k4, p2, k2
Row 3: p2tog, C4B, p2, k2
Row 4: k2tog, k3, p2, k2
Row 5: k2tog, T3F, T3B
Row 6: k2tog, k4, p1
Row 7: To preserve the cable for one more row and to decrease the purl stitch at the end of the pattern, the decrease is moving slightly. Undo the last stitch (purl stitch) and put it next to the 1st stitch. K2tog (purl stitch from the last round & 1st knit stitch on new round; will need to move marker). Then C4F. Continue K2tog, C4F the rest of the round.
Row 8: k2tog, k2
Row 9: k2t0g, k1
Row 10: k2tog
Pull yarn tightly through remaining stitches. Weave in ends.
Please feel free to contact me at irishgirlieknits AT gmail DOT com for questions. If you leave a comment with a question, please be sure to include an email so that I have a way to contact you. Thanks!
Burberry cowl
December 4, 2009
free knitting pattern…burberry inspired cowl neck scarf
a slight twist on garter girl style today…this summer i was looking through instyle magazine and saw an awesome cowl neck scarf from burberry, but was in sticker shock over the price…$750.
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 10
before i even get into this post, i need to be upfront with a major disclaimer. in general, i’m not a fan of blatantly ripping off designs. while i’m aware that my cowl neck scarf is inspired by burberry, there are two issues at play…1.) the price tag is a little hefty even for me, and 2.) i haven’t actually been able to find the scarf itself. i’ve looked endlessly online and been to four different burberry stores with no luck and sales people who had no idea what i was talking about. none the less, i still loved it and wanted to try my hand at creating a knitted pattern. so, here goes…
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 2
i’m by no means a knitting expert, i just love to do it. i had lots of help and support from my knitting group. i first looked through vogue knitting stitchionary vol. two: cables, which i checked out from the library. i found an allover cable idea (#157, reversible ribbed cable). i used this cable pattern as a base, but then katie from my knitting group helped me to modify it quite a bit to get it to look exactly how i wanted.
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 3
thankfully, the instyle blurb listed that the cowl was made of wool and silk. so, i headed up to a tangled skein (thank you, allison) and picked out a really soft merino silk with a slight shine. i used two balls exactly. the cowl in these particular pictures is color “mousse #132.” it is for a friend who totally deserves it! i also picked up “charcoal #131″ for myself, except that on the plane to engage i left an entire ball of yarn…whoops! i just ordered another one, so hopefully i’ll get mine done soon. i can’t wait to wear it and love it all winter!
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 9
without further ado, here is the free burberry inspired cowl neck scarf pattern…
burberry inspired cowl neck scarf
click here for a printable version of the following pattern.
materials…
size 10 knitting needles
2 balls cascade yarns venezia merino silk
cable needle
blunt point eyelet needle for stitching ends together
crochet hook for weaving in ends
directions…
provisional cast on 58 stitches
rows 1 – 10: slip first stitch on each row and stockinette stitch remaining stitches (knit odd rows, purl even rows)
row 11: slip first stitch, k 2, slip 8 onto cable needle (hold to front), k 8, k cable needle, k 20, slip 8 onto cable needle (hold to front), k 8, k cable needle, k 3
row 12 – 24: slip first stitch on each row and stockinette stitch remaining stitches (same as rows 1 – 10)
row 25: slip first stitch, k 20, slip 8 onto cable needle (hold to back), k 8, k cable needle, k 21
row 26 – 30: slip first stitch on each row and stockinette stitch remaining stitches (same as rows 1-10)
repeat pattern to desired length. (note: my cowl in the above pictures is 20 inches long, which was 4 pattern repeats.) remove the provisional cast on stitches. kitchener stitch the last row together with the provisional cast on stitches. weave in all ends.
free knitting pattern…burberry inspired cowl neck scarf
a slight twist on garter girl style today…this summer i was looking through instyle magazine and saw an awesome cowl neck scarf from burberry, but was in sticker shock over the price…$750.
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 10
before i even get into this post, i need to be upfront with a major disclaimer. in general, i’m not a fan of blatantly ripping off designs. while i’m aware that my cowl neck scarf is inspired by burberry, there are two issues at play…1.) the price tag is a little hefty even for me, and 2.) i haven’t actually been able to find the scarf itself. i’ve looked endlessly online and been to four different burberry stores with no luck and sales people who had no idea what i was talking about. none the less, i still loved it and wanted to try my hand at creating a knitted pattern. so, here goes…
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 2
i’m by no means a knitting expert, i just love to do it. i had lots of help and support from my knitting group. i first looked through vogue knitting stitchionary vol. two: cables, which i checked out from the library. i found an allover cable idea (#157, reversible ribbed cable). i used this cable pattern as a base, but then katie from my knitting group helped me to modify it quite a bit to get it to look exactly how i wanted.
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 3
thankfully, the instyle blurb listed that the cowl was made of wool and silk. so, i headed up to a tangled skein (thank you, allison) and picked out a really soft merino silk with a slight shine. i used two balls exactly. the cowl in these particular pictures is color “mousse #132.” it is for a friend who totally deserves it! i also picked up “charcoal #131″ for myself, except that on the plane to engage i left an entire ball of yarn…whoops! i just ordered another one, so hopefully i’ll get mine done soon. i can’t wait to wear it and love it all winter!
knitted cowl - julianne smith - view 9
without further ado, here is the free burberry inspired cowl neck scarf pattern…
burberry inspired cowl neck scarf
click here for a printable version of the following pattern.
materials…
size 10 knitting needles
2 balls cascade yarns venezia merino silk
cable needle
blunt point eyelet needle for stitching ends together
crochet hook for weaving in ends
directions…
provisional cast on 58 stitches
rows 1 – 10: slip first stitch on each row and stockinette stitch remaining stitches (knit odd rows, purl even rows)
row 11: slip first stitch, k 2, slip 8 onto cable needle (hold to front), k 8, k cable needle, k 20, slip 8 onto cable needle (hold to front), k 8, k cable needle, k 3
row 12 – 24: slip first stitch on each row and stockinette stitch remaining stitches (same as rows 1 – 10)
row 25: slip first stitch, k 20, slip 8 onto cable needle (hold to back), k 8, k cable needle, k 21
row 26 – 30: slip first stitch on each row and stockinette stitch remaining stitches (same as rows 1-10)
repeat pattern to desired length. (note: my cowl in the above pictures is 20 inches long, which was 4 pattern repeats.) remove the provisional cast on stitches. kitchener stitch the last row together with the provisional cast on stitches. weave in all ends.
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Cardigan
SIZES
Directions are for women’s size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X and 2X are in parentheses.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust (closed) – 32(36-40-44-48-52)”
Length – 24½(25-25½ -26-26½ -27)”
MATERIALS
8(8-10-11-12-13) Hanks BERROCO ULTRA ALPACA (100 grs), #6292 Tiger’s Eye Mix
Straight knitting needles, size 8 (5.00 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
GAUGE
20 sts = 4”; 36 rows = 4” in Garter St
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE
BACK
With larger needles, cast on 80(90-100-110-120-130) sts. Work even in Garter St until piece measures 2½(2½ -2½ -3-3-3½)” from beg, end on WS. Dec 1 st each side of next row, then every 1½” 4 times more – 70(80-90-100-110-120) sts. Work even until piece measures 12(12-12-12½ -12½-13” from beg, end on WS. Inc 1 st each side on next row, then every ¾” 4 times more – 80(90-100-110-120-130 sts. Work even until piece measures 16(16-16-16½-16½ -17)” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Armholes: Bind off 5(5-6-7-8-9) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 70(80-88-96-104-112) sts. Dec 1 st each side every RS row 5(8-9-11-12-14) times – 60(64-70-74-80-84) sts. Work even until armholes measure 7½(8-8½ - 8½ - 9- 9)”, end on WS.
Shape Shoulders: Bind off 3(5-5-6-7-6) sts at beg of the next 2(2-8-4-2-2) rows, then 4(4-0-5-6-7) sts at beg of the next 6(6-0-4-6-6) rows. Bind off remaining 30 sts for back neck.
LEFT FRONT
With larger needles cast on 40(46-50-55-60-66) sts. Mark beg of row for RS. Work even in Garter St until piece measures 2½(2½ - 2½ -3-3-3½)” from beg, end on WS. Dec 1 st at beg of the next RS row, then at same edge every 1½” 4 times more – 35(41-45-50-55-61) sts. Work even until piece measures 12(12-12-12½ -12½ -13)” from beg, end on WS. Inc 1 st at beg of the next RS row, then at same edge every 3/4” 4 times more – 40(46-50-55-60-66) sts. Work even until piece measures 16(16-16-16½ -16½ -17)” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Armhole: Bind off 5(5-6-7-8-9) sts, k to end – 35(41-44-48-52-57) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 5(8-9-11-12-14) times – 30(33-35-37-40-43) sts. Work even until armhole measures 7½(8-8½ - 8½ - 9- 9)”, end on WS.
Shape Shoulder: Bind off 3(5-5-6-7-6) sts at armhole edge 1(1-4-2-1-1) times, then 4(4-0-5-6-7) sts 3(3-0-2-3-3) times – 15(16-15-15-15-16) sts. Work even on these sts for neck extension until piece measures 3” above last group of bound-off sts, end on WS. Bind off.
RIGHT FRONT
Work to correspond to left front, reversing all shaping. Work side decs and incs at end of RS rows. Bind off for armhole on WS row. Bind off for shoulder on WS rows.
SLEEVES
With straight needles, cast on 44 sts. Work even in Garter St for 3”, end on WS. Inc 1 st each side of next row, then every 2(1½ -1-1-¾ -¾ )” 7(9-12-14-17-19) times more – 60(64-70-74-80-84) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 18” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Cap: Bind off 5(5-6-7-8-9) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 50(54-58-60-64-66) sts. Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 6(6-7-6-6-5) times, then every RS row 12(12-10-12-12-14) times, end on WS – 14(18-24-24-28-28) sts. Bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 8(12-18-18-22-22) sts.
FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams. Sew bound-off edges of collar extensions together. Sew inner edge of collar extensions to back neck edge with seam at center. Sew in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams.
http://www.berroco.com/exclusives/avocet/avocet_b.html
Directions are for women’s size X-Small. Changes for sizes Small, Medium, Large, 1X and 2X are in parentheses.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bust (closed) – 32(36-40-44-48-52)”
Length – 24½(25-25½ -26-26½ -27)”
MATERIALS
8(8-10-11-12-13) Hanks BERROCO ULTRA ALPACA (100 grs), #6292 Tiger’s Eye Mix
Straight knitting needles, size 8 (5.00 mm) OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE
GAUGE
20 sts = 4”; 36 rows = 4” in Garter St
TO SAVE TIME, TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE
BACK
With larger needles, cast on 80(90-100-110-120-130) sts. Work even in Garter St until piece measures 2½(2½ -2½ -3-3-3½)” from beg, end on WS. Dec 1 st each side of next row, then every 1½” 4 times more – 70(80-90-100-110-120) sts. Work even until piece measures 12(12-12-12½ -12½-13” from beg, end on WS. Inc 1 st each side on next row, then every ¾” 4 times more – 80(90-100-110-120-130 sts. Work even until piece measures 16(16-16-16½-16½ -17)” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Armholes: Bind off 5(5-6-7-8-9) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 70(80-88-96-104-112) sts. Dec 1 st each side every RS row 5(8-9-11-12-14) times – 60(64-70-74-80-84) sts. Work even until armholes measure 7½(8-8½ - 8½ - 9- 9)”, end on WS.
Shape Shoulders: Bind off 3(5-5-6-7-6) sts at beg of the next 2(2-8-4-2-2) rows, then 4(4-0-5-6-7) sts at beg of the next 6(6-0-4-6-6) rows. Bind off remaining 30 sts for back neck.
LEFT FRONT
With larger needles cast on 40(46-50-55-60-66) sts. Mark beg of row for RS. Work even in Garter St until piece measures 2½(2½ - 2½ -3-3-3½)” from beg, end on WS. Dec 1 st at beg of the next RS row, then at same edge every 1½” 4 times more – 35(41-45-50-55-61) sts. Work even until piece measures 12(12-12-12½ -12½ -13)” from beg, end on WS. Inc 1 st at beg of the next RS row, then at same edge every 3/4” 4 times more – 40(46-50-55-60-66) sts. Work even until piece measures 16(16-16-16½ -16½ -17)” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Armhole: Bind off 5(5-6-7-8-9) sts, k to end – 35(41-44-48-52-57) sts. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 5(8-9-11-12-14) times – 30(33-35-37-40-43) sts. Work even until armhole measures 7½(8-8½ - 8½ - 9- 9)”, end on WS.
Shape Shoulder: Bind off 3(5-5-6-7-6) sts at armhole edge 1(1-4-2-1-1) times, then 4(4-0-5-6-7) sts 3(3-0-2-3-3) times – 15(16-15-15-15-16) sts. Work even on these sts for neck extension until piece measures 3” above last group of bound-off sts, end on WS. Bind off.
RIGHT FRONT
Work to correspond to left front, reversing all shaping. Work side decs and incs at end of RS rows. Bind off for armhole on WS row. Bind off for shoulder on WS rows.
SLEEVES
With straight needles, cast on 44 sts. Work even in Garter St for 3”, end on WS. Inc 1 st each side of next row, then every 2(1½ -1-1-¾ -¾ )” 7(9-12-14-17-19) times more – 60(64-70-74-80-84) sts. Work even until sleeve measures 18” from beg, end on WS.
Shape Cap: Bind off 5(5-6-7-8-9) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 50(54-58-60-64-66) sts. Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 6(6-7-6-6-5) times, then every RS row 12(12-10-12-12-14) times, end on WS – 14(18-24-24-28-28) sts. Bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 8(12-18-18-22-22) sts.
FINISHING
Sew shoulder seams. Sew bound-off edges of collar extensions together. Sew inner edge of collar extensions to back neck edge with seam at center. Sew in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams.
http://www.berroco.com/exclusives/avocet/avocet_b.html
Sweater
http://throughtheloops.typepad.com/through_the_loops/2011/01/washington-square.html#comments
Crochet stripped coasters
(Assume that when I write dc here the first dc in each round is actually a ch3 )
Create a loop with the yarn and work 12 single crochets into it.
Next round: 2dc into each of the 12. (24 sts)
Next round: (2dc into first st, 1dc into next st.) to end of round. (36 sts)
Next round: (2dc into first st, 1dc into next 2 sts.) to end of round. (48 sts)
Next round: (2dc into first st, 1dc into next 3 sts.) to end of round. (60 sts)
Etc. to the size you want.
Coasters 5
http://throughtheloops.typepad.com/through_the_loops/2010/06/ah-its-that-time-of-year-again---delightful-summer-beverages-sipped-in-lovely-outdoor-locations-but-along-with-those-icy-dr.html
Create a loop with the yarn and work 12 single crochets into it.
Next round: 2dc into each of the 12. (24 sts)
Next round: (2dc into first st, 1dc into next st.) to end of round. (36 sts)
Next round: (2dc into first st, 1dc into next 2 sts.) to end of round. (48 sts)
Next round: (2dc into first st, 1dc into next 3 sts.) to end of round. (60 sts)
Etc. to the size you want.
Coasters 5
http://throughtheloops.typepad.com/through_the_loops/2010/06/ah-its-that-time-of-year-again---delightful-summer-beverages-sipped-in-lovely-outdoor-locations-but-along-with-those-icy-dr.html
Basket weave coasters
Cast On 20 sts
Rows 1 - 5: K5, P5, K5, P5
Rows 6 - 11: P5, K5, P5, K5
Rows 16 - 21: K5, P5, K5, P5
Rows 22 - 27: P5, K5, P5, K5
Bind Off all sts
Rows 1 - 5: K5, P5, K5, P5
Rows 6 - 11: P5, K5, P5, K5
Rows 16 - 21: K5, P5, K5, P5
Rows 22 - 27: P5, K5, P5, K5
Bind Off all sts
Open lace scarf
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/scarfmochilace.htm
Knit with a bulky yarn that changes colors and knits up fast. The lace open work pattern is extremely simple and easy to remember! Knit from side to side so the color changes occur vertically.
Colorful Lace Scarf Knitting Pattern
Colorful Lace Scarf Knitting Pattern Size:
5½" wide x 64" long
Gauge:
9.5 sts = 4" in Pattern Stitch
Materials:
2 balls Mochi Plus by Crystal Palace Yarns
Color 603 Spice Market
80% Merino wool, 20% nylon
95 yards/50 grams
Size 13 US (9 mm) 35" circular needles
See this listing for a shop near you.
Instructions
Seed Stitch
Row 1: k1, * p1, k1; rep from *
Row 2: sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from *
Rep Row 2.
Pattern Stitch
Rows 1 & 3 (WS): Purl
Row 2: k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from *
Row 4: *SSK, yo; rep from * across, end k1
Rep these 4 rows.
CO 151 sts.
Work 2 rows Seed Stitch.
Work Pattern Stitch 24 rows, then rep Row 1, maintaining first and last 3 sts in seed st.
Work 2 rows Seed Stitch.
BO loosely in pat.
Weave in ends.
Knit with a bulky yarn that changes colors and knits up fast. The lace open work pattern is extremely simple and easy to remember! Knit from side to side so the color changes occur vertically.
Colorful Lace Scarf Knitting Pattern
Colorful Lace Scarf Knitting Pattern Size:
5½" wide x 64" long
Gauge:
9.5 sts = 4" in Pattern Stitch
Materials:
2 balls Mochi Plus by Crystal Palace Yarns
Color 603 Spice Market
80% Merino wool, 20% nylon
95 yards/50 grams
Size 13 US (9 mm) 35" circular needles
See this listing for a shop near you.
Instructions
Seed Stitch
Row 1: k1, * p1, k1; rep from *
Row 2: sl 1, *p1, k1; rep from *
Rep Row 2.
Pattern Stitch
Rows 1 & 3 (WS): Purl
Row 2: k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from *
Row 4: *SSK, yo; rep from * across, end k1
Rep these 4 rows.
CO 151 sts.
Work 2 rows Seed Stitch.
Work Pattern Stitch 24 rows, then rep Row 1, maintaining first and last 3 sts in seed st.
Work 2 rows Seed Stitch.
BO loosely in pat.
Weave in ends.
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