Headband: Start at center back. Cast on 19 sts. Knit rib as follows:
Row 1 (right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * K 2, P 1 * repeat a total of 5 times – finish row with K 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Row 2 (wrong side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), * P 2, K 1 * repeat a total of 5 times – finish row with P 2 and K 1 (edge st knit in garter st).
Make all incs on right side rows. When the piece measures 8 cm inc all P 1 to P 2 = 24 sts. When the piece measures 14 cm inc all P 2 to P 3 = 29 sts. When the piece measures 18 cm inc all P 3 to P 4 = 34 sts. When the piece measures 21 cm inc all P 4 to P 5 = 39 sts.
When the piece measures 24 cm place a marker = this is the center of headband.
Now reverse shaping – measure from marker.
Make all decs on right side rows. When the piece measures 3 cm dec all P 5 to P 4 = 34 sts. When the piece measures 6 cm dec all P 4 to P 3 = 29 sts. When the piece measures 10 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 24 sts. When the piece measures 16 cm dec all P 2 to P 1 = 19 sts. When the piece measures 48 cm join to cast-on edge (do not bind off first).
Friday, July 8, 2011
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Stolen moments scarf
Easy enough for lace novices, yet satisfyingly quick for
experienced knitters, this generous wrap is cozy, warm,
elegant, and ideal for knitting just a few rows at a time.
The Stolen Moments Wrap uses an easy four-row lace
pattern to create a modern and plush fabric. For the
sample shown, I used a 100% Cashmere yarn; the
height of luxury. But, this pattern showcases almost
any yarn choice.
Choose between the Chunky or Worsted weight ver-
sions, or simply cast on a multiple of 4 stitches plus 3
stitches.
Materials:
Chunky Version:
350 yards chunky yarn
Shown in Jade Saphire Cashmere 12ply
(100% Cashmere)
US 11/8mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Worsted-weight Version:
550 yards worsted-weight yarn
US 9/5.5mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Sizing:
one size
Finished Measurements:
Before blocking: 14” wide and 48” long
After gentle blocking, approximately: 17”
wide and 64” long
Instructions:
For chunky version, loosely cast on 39 sts. For worsted-weight version, loosely cast on 67 sts.
K 2 rows.
On next row, begin main pattern as follows:
Row 1: K2, [yo, SK2P, yo, K1] 8 times, yo, SK2P, yo, K2
Row 2: K2, p35, K2
Row 3: K4, [yo, SK2P, yo, k1] 7 times, yo, SK2P, yo, k4
Row 4: K2, p35, k2
Repeat the last 4 rows until piece measures 47 inches from cast on edge without stretching, or until nearly out
of yarn, ending with Row 1 or 3 of pattern.
K 2 rows.
Loosely cast off.
Finishing:
Sew in any loose ends. I suggest doing a modified wet blocking to help the lace pattern open up and relax.
Soak the shawl in warm water for up to 20 minutes or until saturated. Roll in a towel to remove as much water
as possible, then lay flat to dry. This simulates what will happen when the shawl is washed eventaully, and cre-
ates a more professional finish.
Take a step back, and enjoy your work!
experienced knitters, this generous wrap is cozy, warm,
elegant, and ideal for knitting just a few rows at a time.
The Stolen Moments Wrap uses an easy four-row lace
pattern to create a modern and plush fabric. For the
sample shown, I used a 100% Cashmere yarn; the
height of luxury. But, this pattern showcases almost
any yarn choice.
Choose between the Chunky or Worsted weight ver-
sions, or simply cast on a multiple of 4 stitches plus 3
stitches.
Materials:
Chunky Version:
350 yards chunky yarn
Shown in Jade Saphire Cashmere 12ply
(100% Cashmere)
US 11/8mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Worsted-weight Version:
550 yards worsted-weight yarn
US 9/5.5mm needles - straight or circular
tapestry needle
Sizing:
one size
Finished Measurements:
Before blocking: 14” wide and 48” long
After gentle blocking, approximately: 17”
wide and 64” long
Instructions:
For chunky version, loosely cast on 39 sts. For worsted-weight version, loosely cast on 67 sts.
K 2 rows.
On next row, begin main pattern as follows:
Row 1: K2, [yo, SK2P, yo, K1] 8 times, yo, SK2P, yo, K2
Row 2: K2, p35, K2
Row 3: K4, [yo, SK2P, yo, k1] 7 times, yo, SK2P, yo, k4
Row 4: K2, p35, k2
Repeat the last 4 rows until piece measures 47 inches from cast on edge without stretching, or until nearly out
of yarn, ending with Row 1 or 3 of pattern.
K 2 rows.
Loosely cast off.
Finishing:
Sew in any loose ends. I suggest doing a modified wet blocking to help the lace pattern open up and relax.
Soak the shawl in warm water for up to 20 minutes or until saturated. Roll in a towel to remove as much water
as possible, then lay flat to dry. This simulates what will happen when the shawl is washed eventaully, and cre-
ates a more professional finish.
Take a step back, and enjoy your work!
One row lace scarf
Materials:
I used 45 g (~175 yards) of a superfine alpaca yarn. The scarf is about 13 x 150 cm (~5 x 60 inches) unblocked, and it's very stretchy in both width and length.
Needles: 6 mm (US 10).
Use bigger needles than the yarn usually calls for.
Gauge (not important): 8 sts = 5 cm (2 inches) in pattern.
Skill level: Easy(/Intermediate)
Note: This will make an (unblocked) width of about 13 cm (about 5 inches). To increase the width: add 4 or more stitches, dividable with 4. The scarf is very stretchy, but you could use a bigger/smaller needle size, thicker/thinner yarn or adjust the stitch count to get a different size.
K= knit
K2tog= knit 2 stitches together
YO= Yarn over
Sts= stitches
Pattern:
Cast on 24 sts (or any number of stiches dividable with 4).
Knit 2 rows
Knit pattern row:
K4, (YO, K2tog, K2) repeat between ( ) 5 times.
Repeat the pattern row until your scarf is at desired length.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
Block if you want to.
If you make this scarf please let me know! I would love to see what you have created.
I used 45 g (~175 yards) of a superfine alpaca yarn. The scarf is about 13 x 150 cm (~5 x 60 inches) unblocked, and it's very stretchy in both width and length.
Needles: 6 mm (US 10).
Use bigger needles than the yarn usually calls for.
Gauge (not important): 8 sts = 5 cm (2 inches) in pattern.
Skill level: Easy(/Intermediate)
Note: This will make an (unblocked) width of about 13 cm (about 5 inches). To increase the width: add 4 or more stitches, dividable with 4. The scarf is very stretchy, but you could use a bigger/smaller needle size, thicker/thinner yarn or adjust the stitch count to get a different size.
K= knit
K2tog= knit 2 stitches together
YO= Yarn over
Sts= stitches
Pattern:
Cast on 24 sts (or any number of stiches dividable with 4).
Knit 2 rows
Knit pattern row:
K4, (YO, K2tog, K2) repeat between ( ) 5 times.
Repeat the pattern row until your scarf is at desired length.
Knit 1 row.
Cast off loosely.
Finishing:
Weave in ends.
Block if you want to.
If you make this scarf please let me know! I would love to see what you have created.
Socks
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/socksbasic.htm
This sock pattern for women works best with a sock weight or skinny sport weight yarn - anything from Socka Colours to Patons Look at Me! baby sport works well. My current favourite is the Look at Me! because it is inexpensive, easy to find, comfy to wear and comes in some of the wildest colours I've ever seen. The socks in the photo are made of Look at Me! - and believe me, people do! I have also made these socks in Wendy's DK cotton, using ribbing all the way down the cuff and on the top of the foot to give the socks more stretch, since cotton is not elastic.
Materials:
100 grams sock yarn of your choice
Have some contrast colour yarn handy for the toes if you are making socks for a long foot, or if you want to extend the cuff length.
Size 2 to 3 US (3 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge:
28 sts= 4 inches
Instructions
CO 56 sts. Join and mark beg of round.
Rib in K2, P2 rib for 7 inches or desired leg length.
Divide For Heel
Put one half of the stitches (28), centered on the beginning of the round, on a needle. (The easiest way to do this is to knit the first 14 sts, then turn and slip the 14 sts on the other side of the marker onto the needle). Place the other half on a holder - these stitches will be the instep later on. Work the heel flap over the 28 sts (using contrast colour if desired):
P across the back of the heel flap, slipping the first stitch.
Turn.
Sl1, K1 across.
Turn.
Repeat these 2 rows till you have worked 28 rows (count the slipped stitches which should be 14).
Turning The Heel
You are making short rows to shape a little cup for the heel.
Starting on the right side, knit halfway across the heel flap (14 sts) plus 2 (16). Sl1, K1, psso. K1. Turn.
Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn.
Sl1, K across to the gap (where you turned), slip the first stitch before the gap, K the stitch on the other side, psso, K1. Turn again.
Sl1, P across to the gap. P2tog across the gap. P1. Turn.
Continue in this manner until all the heel flap stitches have been used up.
Join the first colour back in if you made a contrasting heel. Now you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again. Those stitches you put aside before doing the heel flap have waited patiently and will be put back into use!
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a lovely chain edge which will be easy to pick up. You should be able to get 14 stitches on each side, but don't worry if you get more or less than this. I usually pick up the stitches on one needle and knit them onto another, twisting them by knitting into the back of the loop.
Knit across those patient instep stitches, or continue them in ribbing, then pick up and knit the same number of stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit one half of the heel flap stitches (8 or 9) onto this needle. Mark the centre as the beginning of the round. You now have three needles with rather a lot of stitches on them - one for each side of the gusset and one for the instep. If you have a spare needle in about the same size you can put the instep stitches on two needles instead - I find this is much easier to work.
Now you want to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56).
Knit to 3 sts from the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1.
Rib across the instep sts.
On needles 3 and 4, K first st, Sl1, K1, psso. Knit to end.
K next round plain (ribbing the instep if desired).
Repeat decrease round every other round until you have 56 sts again.
Continue with knit sole and ribbed instep (just follow the established rib) until the foot measures 2½" less than your foot length. I use my 7" double points to give me a rough idea of when to begin the toe shaping, since my foot is 9½" long.
Shape Toe:
Join contrast colour if using such.
Knit one round plain.
Decrease round:
K to 3 sts from end of first needle, K2tog, K1.
K first st on instep needle, Sl1, psso, knit to 3 sts from end of instep needle (or end of needle 3 if you split the instep sts), K2tog, K1.
Last needle, K1, Sl1, psso, K to end.
Knit one round plain.
Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (28, or 7 on each of 4 needles). Then decrease on every round until you have 12 sts left all together.
Cut off the yarn leaving an 18" tail. Thread a needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).
Weave in all your yarn ends, making sure to leave no knots. Knots in a sock will give you nasty blisters! There, you've made a sock! Welcome to the new addiction...
Now you can make the mate. Handmade socks don't always match. If you want to, you can create a wardrobe of single unmatched but coordinating socks and wear a different pair every time!
This sock pattern for women works best with a sock weight or skinny sport weight yarn - anything from Socka Colours to Patons Look at Me! baby sport works well. My current favourite is the Look at Me! because it is inexpensive, easy to find, comfy to wear and comes in some of the wildest colours I've ever seen. The socks in the photo are made of Look at Me! - and believe me, people do! I have also made these socks in Wendy's DK cotton, using ribbing all the way down the cuff and on the top of the foot to give the socks more stretch, since cotton is not elastic.
Materials:
100 grams sock yarn of your choice
Have some contrast colour yarn handy for the toes if you are making socks for a long foot, or if you want to extend the cuff length.
Size 2 to 3 US (3 mm) double pointed needles
Gauge:
28 sts= 4 inches
Instructions
CO 56 sts. Join and mark beg of round.
Rib in K2, P2 rib for 7 inches or desired leg length.
Divide For Heel
Put one half of the stitches (28), centered on the beginning of the round, on a needle. (The easiest way to do this is to knit the first 14 sts, then turn and slip the 14 sts on the other side of the marker onto the needle). Place the other half on a holder - these stitches will be the instep later on. Work the heel flap over the 28 sts (using contrast colour if desired):
P across the back of the heel flap, slipping the first stitch.
Turn.
Sl1, K1 across.
Turn.
Repeat these 2 rows till you have worked 28 rows (count the slipped stitches which should be 14).
Turning The Heel
You are making short rows to shape a little cup for the heel.
Starting on the right side, knit halfway across the heel flap (14 sts) plus 2 (16). Sl1, K1, psso. K1. Turn.
Sl1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn.
Sl1, K across to the gap (where you turned), slip the first stitch before the gap, K the stitch on the other side, psso, K1. Turn again.
Sl1, P across to the gap. P2tog across the gap. P1. Turn.
Continue in this manner until all the heel flap stitches have been used up.
Join the first colour back in if you made a contrasting heel. Now you will be picking up the stitches on the sides of the heel flap and knitting around the sock again. Those stitches you put aside before doing the heel flap have waited patiently and will be put back into use!
By slipping the first stitch of each row on the heel flap, you have made a lovely chain edge which will be easy to pick up. You should be able to get 14 stitches on each side, but don't worry if you get more or less than this. I usually pick up the stitches on one needle and knit them onto another, twisting them by knitting into the back of the loop.
Knit across those patient instep stitches, or continue them in ribbing, then pick up and knit the same number of stitches on the other side of the heel flap. Knit one half of the heel flap stitches (8 or 9) onto this needle. Mark the centre as the beginning of the round. You now have three needles with rather a lot of stitches on them - one for each side of the gusset and one for the instep. If you have a spare needle in about the same size you can put the instep stitches on two needles instead - I find this is much easier to work.
Now you want to make a row of decreases on each side of the heel flap to get back to the same number of stitches you began with (56).
Knit to 3 sts from the end of needle 1, K2tog, K1.
Rib across the instep sts.
On needles 3 and 4, K first st, Sl1, K1, psso. Knit to end.
K next round plain (ribbing the instep if desired).
Repeat decrease round every other round until you have 56 sts again.
Continue with knit sole and ribbed instep (just follow the established rib) until the foot measures 2½" less than your foot length. I use my 7" double points to give me a rough idea of when to begin the toe shaping, since my foot is 9½" long.
Shape Toe:
Join contrast colour if using such.
Knit one round plain.
Decrease round:
K to 3 sts from end of first needle, K2tog, K1.
K first st on instep needle, Sl1, psso, knit to 3 sts from end of instep needle (or end of needle 3 if you split the instep sts), K2tog, K1.
Last needle, K1, Sl1, psso, K to end.
Knit one round plain.
Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have half the number of sts you began with (28, or 7 on each of 4 needles). Then decrease on every round until you have 12 sts left all together.
Cut off the yarn leaving an 18" tail. Thread a needle with this yarn tail and graft these sts together using the Kitchener stitch or just thread the end through all the sts and draw them up tightly. Weave the end of the yarn into the back of the stitches (turn the sock inside out).
Weave in all your yarn ends, making sure to leave no knots. Knots in a sock will give you nasty blisters! There, you've made a sock! Welcome to the new addiction...
Now you can make the mate. Handmade socks don't always match. If you want to, you can create a wardrobe of single unmatched but coordinating socks and wear a different pair every time!
Toe up Gusseted Heel
Toe-up Gusseted Heel
http://www.maiaspins.typepad.com/maiaspins/2007/05/toeup_gusseted_.html
Warning: This is a very picture heavy post. Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I am a big fan of toe-up socks. Partly because I have large feet and I always worry about running out of yarn and partly because it just feels right to me. I also have high arches. Afterthought and short-row heels don't give me the fit I am looking for. I have been searching for the right heel and have even invented a few. My Penny Socks and Banana Blossom Socks use two different attempts at finding the "right heel". Both work in these patterns, but neither one is versatile enough to be used on any sock at any gauge.
I started thinking about heel construction and realized that I was trying to reinvent the wheel. Why not turn a top-down heel upside down?
It is pretty simple. And, it works at all gauges. I have tested it on socks knit at 6 sts/in and socks at 9.5 sts/in (shown in this tutorial) as well as fingering weight socks. This tutorial will work the math for this sock for my foot (10.25 inches long). I incorporate negative ease in the circumference and a little bit in the length of the foot because I like a snug fit. You should adapt this to suit your foot. I would love to hear what you learn.
Please note that the numbers in this tutorial are for the sock shown. I have tried to make calculating these numbers straightforward. (Let me know if this is not the case.) You will need to calculate the numbers you need if you are using a different number of stitches.
This tutorial is designed for a high arch. For a lower arch, see the modifications at the bottom.
Knit your sock from the toe-up using your favorite methods. When it reaches about 65% of the total length of your foot you will start on the heel flap. The math for calculating this is 10.25 inches x 0.65 = 6.7 inches. I usually use about 6.5 inches.
Flap_start_2 The first time I used this method, I made the flap with all of the sole stitches. The flap seemed to come up too far over my heel and it looked a bit clunky. Now I use 2/3 of the sole stitches and it has a much cleaner look. This sock is knit on 80 stitches, 40 soles stitches and 40 instep stitches. So 40 sts x 2/3 = 26.7 sts. I want an even number, either 26 or 28. I used 26 sts for the flap. This mean 14 sole stitches will remain unworked. They are shown on the lower horizontal needle (7 sts on each side of the flap). I don't knit with that needle as shown, it is just to help you see what I'm doing; it is awkward and unnecessary to have it there. I place the extra stitches on the adjacent needles. The pins are to keep the flap from rolling while I took the picture.
Flap_finished Work until the sock including the flap measures about 90 - 95% of the total length of your foot. End on a right side (RS) row. 10.25 inches x 0.95 = 9.7 inches. I used 9.5 inches. Again the lower horizontal needle and pins are just for clarity.
Flap_finished_2 Here is what the sock looks like without the second horizontal needle. It looks like a tie to me.
On to the heel shaping. First we need to determine the number of heel stitches we will use. The heel stitches will be the middle stitches (you'll see what they are in a minute). I use 1+ inches. In this case 10 stitches. We need the remaining flap stitches to be divisible by 4. Since this flap is worked on 26 sts and we are using 10 heel stitches, that leaves 16 stitches (I call them side stitches) which is divisible by 4.
Heel shaping starts on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
Heel_shaping Continue in this manner until you have only the heel stitches (10) remaining, ending on a RS row. In this case it is 10 heel stitches. There should be 8 stitches on each side of the heel stitches. 8 +10 + 8 = 26 = the total number of flap stitches. Turn work to the WS.
Now we need to incorporate these stitches. You should be on a WS row.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches - 2 (for this sock it is 10 - 2 = 8), slip=slip-purl (SSP, see below), purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches - 1 (10 - 1 = 9), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches (10), SSP, purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches + 1 (10 + 1 = 11), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
Heel_shaping_done Continue in this manner until all the side stitches have been incorporated. There will be fewer stitches now than you worked on the flap. Half of the side stitches have been decreased by the SSP's and k2tog's. For this sock, there should be 10 heel stitches plus half of the side stitches (10 + 16/2 = 10 + 8 = 18).
Heel_shaping_side_view Here is another view of the heel from the side. As you can see there are no holes, just a clean look.
Heel_divided Now we need to pick up gusset stitches along each side of the flap. To make this easier, I evenly divide the stitches at the heel onto 2 needles.
Gusset_gap Pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch along the side of the flap. I pick up both loops of the slipped stitch because I prefer that look. When you get to the base of the flap there will be a gap between the last slipped stitch and the rest of the foot stitches.
Gusset_gap_closed Pick up one more stitch (gap stitch), one row below the last slipped stitch. With the same needle, work across the sole stitches that were set aside when you reduced the flap to 2/3 of the sole stitches. I like to do this so that when I work the gusset decreases, I am not at a gap between needles. It helps to keep the decreases snug and clean looking. It also returns the stitches on the instep needles to their original number.
All_picked_up Repeat (but in reverse) for the other side of the flap. When all of the stitches are picked up, it will look like this. I now consider the back of the heel to be the start of the round. Work one round before the gusset decreases.
We will now decrease the gusset stitches until we are back to the original number of stitches at the foot (80 for this sock). Since the instep needles are restored to their original number of stitches (20 each), we will decrease until the sole needles have the same number of stitches (20 x 4 = 80).
Align_gusset_decreases For a clean look I like to align the gusset decreases with the column of stitches adjacent to the flap stitches.
Align_gusset_decreases_2 Here is an annotated version of the gusset decrease alignment. As it happens, the cleanest look comes from using the gap stitch as the line for decreasing.
Decreases are worked as follows:
Work from the back of the heel to one stitch before the first gap stitch, k2tog, work to the second gap stitch, ssk, work the rest of the round. Repeat this decrease round on every other row until you have the correct number of stitches.
Gusset_decreases_started Here is how it will look after a few rounds.
Gusset_decreases_done And, after decreases are complete.
Finish the leg and cuff as you desire.
A pdf version of this tutorial will be is available shortly (as a link in the side bar with the other tutorial links).
Abbreviations:
k2tog: knit two stitches together by putting your needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch.
ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip 1 knitwise (as if to knit), slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle and knit the stitches together through the back of the loop.
Ssp SSP: slip, slip, purl. Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle, purl the two stitches together by putting the needle through the back of the second stitch and then the first stitch (see picture at right).
sts: abbreviation for stitches.
Tips:
Pull all slipped stitches tight. This will help prevent holes at the heel shaping.
I find it easiest to do the gusset decreases on pattern rows (assuming that the pattern stitch is worked on every other row). That way I know all the thinking is happening on one round. It helps me keep track of what I'm doing.
Modifications:
For a lower arch, work the foot longer, maybe to 75% of the total foot length. The flap will still be worked until it is 90 - 95% of the total foot length. The flap will end up shorter and therefor you will have fewer stitches to pick up along the flap and fewer stitches to decrease.
You may want to adjust the number of flap stitches slightly to work with the stitch pattern at the leg.
I hope you find this tutorial helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I view my tutorials and patterns as guidelines. Please make any modifications that make sense for your style and fit. And, then, tell me what you have learned.
UPDATE: January 10, 2008
Lilli in Finland has posted a Finnish translation of this tutorial. It is worth checking out even if you don't speak Finnish. She has mad a chart of the heel turn that is quite helpful. Thank you Lilli!
http://www.maiaspins.typepad.com/maiaspins/2007/05/toeup_gusseted_.html
Warning: This is a very picture heavy post. Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I am a big fan of toe-up socks. Partly because I have large feet and I always worry about running out of yarn and partly because it just feels right to me. I also have high arches. Afterthought and short-row heels don't give me the fit I am looking for. I have been searching for the right heel and have even invented a few. My Penny Socks and Banana Blossom Socks use two different attempts at finding the "right heel". Both work in these patterns, but neither one is versatile enough to be used on any sock at any gauge.
I started thinking about heel construction and realized that I was trying to reinvent the wheel. Why not turn a top-down heel upside down?
It is pretty simple. And, it works at all gauges. I have tested it on socks knit at 6 sts/in and socks at 9.5 sts/in (shown in this tutorial) as well as fingering weight socks. This tutorial will work the math for this sock for my foot (10.25 inches long). I incorporate negative ease in the circumference and a little bit in the length of the foot because I like a snug fit. You should adapt this to suit your foot. I would love to hear what you learn.
Please note that the numbers in this tutorial are for the sock shown. I have tried to make calculating these numbers straightforward. (Let me know if this is not the case.) You will need to calculate the numbers you need if you are using a different number of stitches.
This tutorial is designed for a high arch. For a lower arch, see the modifications at the bottom.
Knit your sock from the toe-up using your favorite methods. When it reaches about 65% of the total length of your foot you will start on the heel flap. The math for calculating this is 10.25 inches x 0.65 = 6.7 inches. I usually use about 6.5 inches.
Flap_start_2 The first time I used this method, I made the flap with all of the sole stitches. The flap seemed to come up too far over my heel and it looked a bit clunky. Now I use 2/3 of the sole stitches and it has a much cleaner look. This sock is knit on 80 stitches, 40 soles stitches and 40 instep stitches. So 40 sts x 2/3 = 26.7 sts. I want an even number, either 26 or 28. I used 26 sts for the flap. This mean 14 sole stitches will remain unworked. They are shown on the lower horizontal needle (7 sts on each side of the flap). I don't knit with that needle as shown, it is just to help you see what I'm doing; it is awkward and unnecessary to have it there. I place the extra stitches on the adjacent needles. The pins are to keep the flap from rolling while I took the picture.
Flap_finished Work until the sock including the flap measures about 90 - 95% of the total length of your foot. End on a right side (RS) row. 10.25 inches x 0.95 = 9.7 inches. I used 9.5 inches. Again the lower horizontal needle and pins are just for clarity.
Flap_finished_2 Here is what the sock looks like without the second horizontal needle. It looks like a tie to me.
On to the heel shaping. First we need to determine the number of heel stitches we will use. The heel stitches will be the middle stitches (you'll see what they are in a minute). I use 1+ inches. In this case 10 stitches. We need the remaining flap stitches to be divisible by 4. Since this flap is worked on 26 sts and we are using 10 heel stitches, that leaves 16 stitches (I call them side stitches) which is divisible by 4.
Heel shaping starts on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
Heel_shaping Continue in this manner until you have only the heel stitches (10) remaining, ending on a RS row. In this case it is 10 heel stitches. There should be 8 stitches on each side of the heel stitches. 8 +10 + 8 = 26 = the total number of flap stitches. Turn work to the WS.
Now we need to incorporate these stitches. You should be on a WS row.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches - 2 (for this sock it is 10 - 2 = 8), slip=slip-purl (SSP, see below), purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches - 1 (10 - 1 = 9), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches (10), SSP, purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches + 1 (10 + 1 = 11), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
Heel_shaping_done Continue in this manner until all the side stitches have been incorporated. There will be fewer stitches now than you worked on the flap. Half of the side stitches have been decreased by the SSP's and k2tog's. For this sock, there should be 10 heel stitches plus half of the side stitches (10 + 16/2 = 10 + 8 = 18).
Heel_shaping_side_view Here is another view of the heel from the side. As you can see there are no holes, just a clean look.
Heel_divided Now we need to pick up gusset stitches along each side of the flap. To make this easier, I evenly divide the stitches at the heel onto 2 needles.
Gusset_gap Pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch along the side of the flap. I pick up both loops of the slipped stitch because I prefer that look. When you get to the base of the flap there will be a gap between the last slipped stitch and the rest of the foot stitches.
Gusset_gap_closed Pick up one more stitch (gap stitch), one row below the last slipped stitch. With the same needle, work across the sole stitches that were set aside when you reduced the flap to 2/3 of the sole stitches. I like to do this so that when I work the gusset decreases, I am not at a gap between needles. It helps to keep the decreases snug and clean looking. It also returns the stitches on the instep needles to their original number.
All_picked_up Repeat (but in reverse) for the other side of the flap. When all of the stitches are picked up, it will look like this. I now consider the back of the heel to be the start of the round. Work one round before the gusset decreases.
We will now decrease the gusset stitches until we are back to the original number of stitches at the foot (80 for this sock). Since the instep needles are restored to their original number of stitches (20 each), we will decrease until the sole needles have the same number of stitches (20 x 4 = 80).
Align_gusset_decreases For a clean look I like to align the gusset decreases with the column of stitches adjacent to the flap stitches.
Align_gusset_decreases_2 Here is an annotated version of the gusset decrease alignment. As it happens, the cleanest look comes from using the gap stitch as the line for decreasing.
Decreases are worked as follows:
Work from the back of the heel to one stitch before the first gap stitch, k2tog, work to the second gap stitch, ssk, work the rest of the round. Repeat this decrease round on every other row until you have the correct number of stitches.
Gusset_decreases_started Here is how it will look after a few rounds.
Gusset_decreases_done And, after decreases are complete.
Finish the leg and cuff as you desire.
A pdf version of this tutorial will be is available shortly (as a link in the side bar with the other tutorial links).
Abbreviations:
k2tog: knit two stitches together by putting your needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch.
ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip 1 knitwise (as if to knit), slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle and knit the stitches together through the back of the loop.
Ssp SSP: slip, slip, purl. Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle, purl the two stitches together by putting the needle through the back of the second stitch and then the first stitch (see picture at right).
sts: abbreviation for stitches.
Tips:
Pull all slipped stitches tight. This will help prevent holes at the heel shaping.
I find it easiest to do the gusset decreases on pattern rows (assuming that the pattern stitch is worked on every other row). That way I know all the thinking is happening on one round. It helps me keep track of what I'm doing.
Modifications:
For a lower arch, work the foot longer, maybe to 75% of the total foot length. The flap will still be worked until it is 90 - 95% of the total foot length. The flap will end up shorter and therefor you will have fewer stitches to pick up along the flap and fewer stitches to decrease.
You may want to adjust the number of flap stitches slightly to work with the stitch pattern at the leg.
I hope you find this tutorial helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I view my tutorials and patterns as guidelines. Please make any modifications that make sense for your style and fit. And, then, tell me what you have learned.
UPDATE: January 10, 2008
Lilli in Finland has posted a Finnish translation of this tutorial. It is worth checking out even if you don't speak Finnish. She has mad a chart of the heel turn that is quite helpful. Thank you Lilli!
Friday, February 4, 2011
Cowl/hood
Use size 11
GAUGE:
14 sts + 18 rnds = 4 in. [10 cm] over pattern st. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
COWL/HOOD
Cast on 82 (89) sts. Join, taking care not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnds 1-4: Purl.
Rnds 5-8: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1-8 until piece measures 21 in. [54 cm], end with a Rnd 4. Bind off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
GAUGE:
14 sts + 18 rnds = 4 in. [10 cm] over pattern st. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you fewer stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.
COWL/HOOD
Cast on 82 (89) sts. Join, taking care not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnds 1-4: Purl.
Rnds 5-8: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1-8 until piece measures 21 in. [54 cm], end with a Rnd 4. Bind off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends.
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